Mackinnon Road train station lies along the Mombasa-Nairobi highway near Mariakani town. The most outstanding landmark here is the Mackinnon Road Mosque that was built as a result of the tomb of Seyyid Baghali, who was a foreman at the time of building the railway fabled for his tremendous strength and according to many, charmed lifestyle.
Travellers, regardless of religion or colour have been making stop overs at the shrine long before independence and are pulling up at the sight to this day.
Legend has it that Baghali was a saint whose family tree traced back to the Holy Prophet, a fact that he tried to conceal from the public to no avail. For when he got tired of carrying stones, his ‘laden karai’ (vessel) would float above his head to the consternation of many.
By 1940s, when the grave was still covered in bushes, travellers would stop there and ask for boons and generally attribute their safety during their journey to the holy man buried at the tomb. The news spread, a legend started and a reputation of the place grew.
People later claimed that Baghali would communicate with man-eaters (lions) who were terrorising the Indian workers and order them to relocate saving the lives of his colleagues.
Read more at: The Mosque that Serves all
The Mystic of Mackinnon Road
veiled by bougainvillea within sacred alabastrine walls
travellers pause, seek fragrant blessings for onward journeys
the iron snake tracks through unforgiving terrains
yet you walk as though treading on rose petals
stone laden karai floats over you in reverence, a halo?
the python consents to your prayers
even the man-eaters daren’t cross perimeters
forgive my impertinence
my persistence, my obstinance
O Mystic of Mackinnon Road, I discovered
a secret divine within the Lunatic Line’s shrine…
those who dare transcend the limits of possibility
remain indifferent to accusations of insanity
***
This was a very difficult poem to write. Would have never considered writing it, except that it was an assignment which was due for our workshop of creating poetry with local content. In researching, I came across interesting new stories and people.
I remember stopping at Mackinnon rd mosque whenever we travelled to Mombasa by road, even the public buses and train would hoot or whistle and slow down to pay their respects and be assured of a safe journey.
Syed Baghali was known to understand and speak the language of animals. On one occasion, when the working party was around the area of Mackinnon, a huge python appeared. It was ready to strike at anyone who dared to approach it. Some of the labourers and one of the Englishmen got ready with their lathis (sticks) and gun to shoot it.
Pir Baghali begged them not to harm the python. He faced the snake and pleaded with it to leave. The snake stood for a while, poised to attack, but shortly after, it gradually backed down and slithered away.
It is said he also kept the lions away and the labourers in his camp remained safe.
~Excerpt from the book Oral Literature of the Asians in East Africa by Mubina Hassanali Kirmani and Sanaullah Kirmani
Read also about The strange history of the man-eating lions of Tsavo
You will enjoy this wonderful Photo Essay on the Lunatic Express
When I remember Kenya, I will think of trains. Not because I saw so many of them and not because I travelled in one. But the Kenya the world knows today would not exist except for a rail line that, during its design and construction, was considered such a bad idea it was dubbed the Lunatic Line.
Maybe it was crazy and maybe it was not.
I just wanted to say a little more about the final couplet in my poem
those who dare transcend the limits of possibility
remain indifferent to accusations of insanity
To break through the self-imposed limits of possibility, to create new possibilities we must step away from our inhibitions and embrace a touch of madness, for
only the insane are truly liberated
And to sign off, here is a delightful song by the very talented and versatile Rahi Bains. I had the pleasure to come across Rahi ji and his music during my research. You will get to see the quaint Mackinnon road mosque in this video, enjoy the song.
( Continuation The Padre’s Shroud , a follow up poem where I had to be an object in the myth)
This is awesome – the story and your winsome rendition. Loved it and read it over and over… Have a great 2023!
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Thank you so much, very encouraged to hear you read it over and over. Wishing you love and luck in 2023 :)
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Dear Sonya,
Thank you so much for this amazing post. It took me a while reading it, but I enjoyed the poem and the music of Syed Bagh Ali. 🙂
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I’m happy to hear you went through the post and enjoyed it. It was so worth the effort :)
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Beautifully written Sonya. We have been visiting the shrine since childhood . It will always be a part of my childhood memories as we were not allowed to continue our journey to Mombasa without praying there.
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Thanks Namrata, for reading and sharing your beautiful memories.🙏🏼❤️
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I’m in consternation, wonderment, and supplication; that there are people , other than me, in this wide world where belief and faith comes in a chosen few, there are people who know this phenomenon; I always thought I was the only one who had had a first hand experience of this healing spot.
I had a nagging ‘Unwellness ‘ that had defied many physicians, almost ‘ to live with it state ‘ till my parents not so saint minded, drove me here, and asked the spirit to bless with a cure ; I was asked how many years respite do you want …. and lo and behold, till beyond half a century, todate, I don’t know what ailment that was !
Syed A Khurazmi
London/ Islbd
Cyed001 @yahoo . com
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This is an amazing story, thank you so much for sharing it here.
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Hi thanks for your beautiful presentations on Sultan Hamud station. As part of the Chuma ngumu community that worked those rails Asante sana. The stories capture a time that is rarely known. it is therefore most informative and enriching.
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Mathews, thank you so much.
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This is not just a story, it is a fact. Thank you Sonya for sharing it. I am from Tanzania, all my three brothers passed away right after birth due to some reason then few years later my elder sister was born. As ouir indian tradition is if you do not give birth to a male child you are considered childless and are taunted every passing day of your life, same was experienced by my parents.
They then heard about the pir baghali darga and prayed for a boon, finally my mom conceived and it was a baby boy (me). Though i had to fight for life since birth but what i am today is because of pir baghali.
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Harsh, this is truly amazing. Thank you for sharing your heart-warming life story here. A hopeful message and it keeps Pir Baghali alive.
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I have also made several stop-overs at the mosque,experienced the warmth and tranquility of the place,I’ve also heard about some of the stories and much more of the walii,Mashallah.Good read.keep it up.
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Thank you, Mohamed for reading and sharing your thoughts. Yes its tranquility and simplicity is a stark contrast to our daily lives.
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hi can you give me the tel number of BAGH ALI SHAH MOSQUE (MACKINON ROAD) Mackinnon Road and the person in charge as i would like to donate some funds
blcosupply@gmail.com
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I love it when you say a little about your poems. I know you want the reader to interpret it the way they feel to, but some of us love knowing how you interpret it or how you came to choose those lines. Another beautiful post 💛
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Thanks for your feedback. Will certainly keep it in mind, though it is so difficult for me to explain :(
In my Index I have tried to put a brief comment for some of the poems.
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I love this! These little known places with fables of their own are so charming to come about. And many have an air (vibe, if you will) about them. Thanks for this lovely post!
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Yes, I felt the vibe even in my writing :)
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Dear Sonya,
What an inspiring and intriguing post about this saint! Thank you for this.
All good wishes,
robert
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Thank you Robert. Glad to know you found the post intriguing.
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I loved your story, your poem is amazing and concluding it with with this wonderful song is awesome. Thank you, Sonya. :)
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That’s great Ranu, thank you. The song was a delight.
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Your history lesson accompanying the poem brings it to life. Thank you. Thoroughly enjoyed.
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So pleased to hear this Bob. Makes it worth the effort :)
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You never stop amazing me with your writings.Serve some more.
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Wow, thank you Yagnesh ji. To have amazed a natural story teller like you is an achievement for me :)
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Telling inane stories is one thing and writing
meaningful articles having profound depth is
quite another. Keep going. By the way how is
your daughter doing? Love to all of you.
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My daughter is doing well thanks.
Leave it to the reader to judge your writing :)
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Thank you very much, Madam Judge! Point Tanken.
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